Puck’s Greeting to the New Year, 1898

It’s not often that you find women representing the old and new years.  This wonderful image showed up in my Flickr feed from the Library of Congress.  It comes from the satirical magazine, Puck, which often featured drawings of comely young ladies.  This is my first glimpse of a depiction of an older woman.  Here she represents all the problems of the past, including “Bryanism,” (the philosophy of William Jennings Bryan) and Hard Times.

Bicycles were very much the emblem of the New Woman at the end of the nineteenth century, and here we see such a woman in all her independence.  Although she doesn’t have on a divided skirt, hers is short enough that it doesn’t get in the way of the wheels.  She wears a jaunty hat and a contented look, sprinkling flowers behind her as she rides.

The older woman, by contrast, is witch like.  Dressed all in black, she wears an old fashioned bonnet.  Her gloomy dress might also have a bustle, another out-of-style element.  The long skirt looks not only uncomfortable but dangerous.  Pursued by storms, she rides out into desolation.  It’s interesting, though, that she is also on a bike.  Apparently in Puck’s view not even the old could avoid modern forms of transportation. 

Posted in Pre 1900 | Tagged , | 3 Comments

An Oldster’s New Year’s Wish

John Wagner

While looking for pictures of older women on New Year’s Eve, I landed on this cartoon image of Maxine, a crabby old lady always depicted with her dog, Floyd.  Invented by cartoonist John Wagner and published by Hallmark, Maxine had a long run from 1990 until 2014.  She was news to me, though.  How did I miss her?  Looking on eBay, I discovered books, cups, glasses and even playing cards devoted to her.

According to this analysis, Maxine was originally created as a humorous birthday card figure, someone who hated birthdays because she was old. She had many other unpleasant traits, including a dislike of children, old men, and people in general.  

On other hand, she was a style original.  She always wore big aviator sunglasses, rain or shine.  Her blue hair was usually covered with some kind of funky hat.  Her outfits rarely coordinated.  And she was never afraid of trying something new, with the clothes to match. 

John Wagner

Love her or hate her, I certainly endorse her New Year’s sentiment.  Let’s keep on getting old–a toast for the new year.

Posted in 2010s | Tagged | 2 Comments

Christmas Ingenuity, 1950s

When this photo appeared on the Facebook group Mid-Century in Color, comments were disparaging.  Why did the women look so glum?  And why was their sad replacement for a Christmas tree apparently a refashioned patio umbrella?

I choose to see it differently.  Perhaps it was the photographer’s fault that the women don’t look more cheerful.  They aren’t all looking at the camera, so obviously the shot was not set up very well.  A closer look shows that they are dressed up for the occasion.   The woman in brown wears jewelry and her companion in front has on a shiny, colorful sheath dress.  Even the woman on the right, looking away from the camera, wears a dress with a textured print that seems a nod to a festive occasion.

And is the tree substitute really such a bad idea?  In this age where we debate about the ecological merits of a real versus a faux tree, why not a substitute that serves many seasons?  It probably brought a smile in the summer if it made its way to the patio.  And there’s plenty of room for presents at the bottom.

Let’s face it—decorating for Christmas is a lot of work, and not every older person is fit enough to take it on.  I think these women marked the season with originality.  Too bad we can’t see whatever graces the top of the tree.

Posted in 1950s | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

Arts and Crafts Style

Found photo

This old photo, none too clear, documents a club luncheon, at least according to the faded writing on the back.  I imagine that the hostess is the woman standing front left.  She is dressed in what I call an Arts and Craft style outfit, sometimes called Reform Dress or Aesthetic Dress.  The key features are a loose shape and many embellishments.  Her dress is decorated with medallions, perhaps hand embroidered.   The long necklace adds to her arty look.  What a shame that the details are not sharper.

The Arts and Crafts Movement favored hand work, with a special emphasis on beautifying everyday objects.  Clothing fell squarely into that category. Women’s magazines like Ladies Home Journal published guides for inserting embroidered patterns in clothes.  Maybe the woman reached for something similar to elevate her otherwise very plain dress.

This Harper’s Bazar (as it was then spelled) cover from 1914 shows much more elaborate versions of the same style principles.

As is evident in the photo above, the Arts and Craft style was a niche look.  Our hostess is gathered with women wearing much more ordinary outfits.  All the better to make one’s mark. 

Posted in 1910s | Tagged | Leave a comment

My Borrowed Fur Coat

Family photo

Thinking about the history of women and fur, I was reminded of the Russian winter of 1981-82 when I wore a borrowed muskrat coat.  A friend discovered it in her attic and we both decided it was just the thing to take to Russia for my Ph.D. research year. Here you see me on the deck of the battleship Aurora, celebrated for firing on the Winter Palace at the start of the Russian Revolution.

And should you need it, here is better evidence that I really was in Russia.  The photo was taken in Red Square.  You can see Lenin’s tomb faintly in the background.

I found this coat more of a trial than a luxury.  The arms were too short.  In the top photo I’m wearing my husband’s gloves, since my own weren’t up to the challenge of the below zero weather.  The collar wouldn’t stay closed, so I had to try it up with a scarf.  But the fur itself was the worst problem.  Whenever I went into a heated space, like the Moscow subway, the coat was so warm I started sweating.  Maybe fur coats were made for women who spent their time shoveling snow outside?  Or travelling like nineteenth century heroines on those open sleighs? For me it was sort of like wearing a portable mini sauna, and I’m not a person who runs warm.

Anyway, my experience turned me into a critic of fur long before the anti-fur movement took hold. And when I see historic photos of women wearing fur coats here in coastal California I really shake my head. Maybe they just posed for the photo and then changed into something more climate appropriate.

Posted in 1980s | Tagged | 3 Comments

Cowgirl Style

Found photo

I had to manipulate this very faded photo, an eBay find, to get the details.  If we are judging by the length of the skirt, this snapshot might have been taken in the 1910s.  However, something tells me that this particular woman didn’t pay much attention to fashion trends. It’s hard to judge just what she is wearing—a dress with a peter pan collar, covered with an apron?  A shirt with rolled-up sleeves and a skirt?  Her figure certainly shows the marks of aging, with lowered breasts and wide waist.

What stands out the most, though, is her cowboy hat and sturdy boots.  These aren’t dress up items but elements of a serious work outfit.  Might there be a barn somewhere nearby?

Posted in General | Tagged | 2 Comments

A Thanksgiving Diorama, 1939

There don’t seem to be any Indians in this imagined version of old time Thanksgiving, but the turkey is there.  The two observers look dressed up for a festive event—are they on their way to their own Thanksgiving dinner?  The younger one on the right has sparkles on her dress and the older one on the left wears fancy jewelry and a big lace collar.

I think of the lace collar as one of the distinctive markers of an “old lady style” in the first half of the twentieth century.  This woman has gone all out with hers.  I’m wondering if it was homemade.

Wishing everyone a happy day!  I don’t much care for turkey, but I’m looking forward to the pies.

Posted in 1930s | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

The Fur Scarf, 1925

The fur scarf was a favorite accessory in the 1920s, beloved by old and young alike.  My photo collection includes snapshots of many women wrapped up in these stylish wardrobe additions.

The pictures above from a 1925 catalog, offered on the wonderful blog The New Vintage Lady, shows that the scarves were available at many price points, depending on the size of the scarf and the quality of the fur.  The “money saving special” fur ensemble scarf was only $3.95—$73.00 in today’s currency.  It sounds like it was probably composed of fur scraps from various animals.  It is also quite small, only circling the neck.

For just a dollar more you could get a considerably larger scarf made of Manchurian wolf or marmot.  These included the characteristic head, with the mouth used as a clasp, and dangling feet for decoration.

In a completely different price range is the gorgeous fox fur, the top of the line in the 1920s.  Gorgeously full with a big bushy tail, it cost almost five times more than the lesser furs, coming in at $454 in today’s currency.  (Here’s the tool I use for conversion). 

That makes me wonder how much the women above spent on their accessories, which come in many different fur types and configurations.  The good news—they happily could have worn their scarves for decades.

Posted in 1920s, General | Tagged | 2 Comments

A Mystery Dress

Found photo

This was a tiny picture to begin with and making it larger has just made it fuzzier.  Nonetheless, I think you can see the details that fascinate me.  Just what is she wearing?  A short sleeved, many-layered bathrobe with a long-sleeved shirt underneath?  A dress inspired by another culture beyond my ken?  A Google image search turned up nothing similar.

I was drawn to this photo not only by the outfit’s shape, but also by the fabric.  To me this looks like an Art Deco design, a style I love for its geometric structure with elaborate details.  Here are some examples from the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Too bad we can’t see the colors on our lady’s dress.  Is it homemade?  Someone has taken care to match the large pattern across the many panels.

Art Deco got its official start at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris one hundred years ago.  It was a big event in the history of modern design and there is a new exhibit investigating its heritage this year.  Perhaps Art Deco fabric will make a brief comeback.

When was the photo taken?  The shoes could be from the 1920s, but the dress with its unusual structure could have come from any era.  I would love to hear your thoughts.

Posted in 1920s, 1930s | Tagged | 1 Comment

Small Prints for Older Women

Found photo

This old woman looks almost regal sitting in a rattan chair in from of her house, at least I imagine it is hers.  She offers familiar markers of age—hair drawn back into a severe bun and a brooch at the high neckline.  Her waistline has also moved up quite a bit to accommodate the menopot that comes with age. 

However, what drew me to this photo were the small white dots on her dark dress—perhaps even a navy blue dress.  Fashion advisors in the early 1900s, when I believe this photo was taken, told older women to stick to dark colors and very small prints so as not to draw attention to a shape that had not changed for the better with age.

At first I assumed that these were polka dots, a perennial favorite. They aren’t. Instead, they are small rice shaped figures set at angles, giving the pattern a little more movement. It just goes to show that even within the narrow strictures set for older women someone could make things a bit more interesting.

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