Cowgirl Style

Found photo

I had to manipulate this very faded photo, an eBay find, to get the details.  If we are judging by the length of the skirt, this snapshot might have been taken in the 1910s.  However, something tells me that this particular woman didn’t pay much attention to fashion trends. It’s hard to judge just what she is wearing—a dress with a peter pan collar, covered with an apron?  A shirt with rolled-up sleeves and a skirt?  Her figure certainly shows the marks of aging, with lowered breasts and wide waist.

What stands out the most, though, is her cowboy hat and sturdy boots.  These aren’t dress up items but elements of a serious work outfit.  Might there be a barn somewhere nearby?

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A Thanksgiving Diorama, 1939

There don’t seem to be any Indians in this imagined version of old time Thanksgiving, but the turkey is there.  The two observers look dressed up for a festive event—are they on their way to their own Thanksgiving dinner?  The younger one on the right has sparkles on her dress and the older one on the left wears fancy jewelry and a big lace collar.

I think of the lace collar as one of the distinctive markers of an “old lady style” in the first half of the twentieth century.  This woman has gone all out with hers.  I’m wondering if it was homemade.

Wishing everyone a happy day!  I don’t much care for turkey, but I’m looking forward to the pies.

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The Fur Scarf, 1925

The fur scarf was a favorite accessory in the 1920s, beloved by old and young alike.  My photo collection includes snapshots of many women wrapped up in these stylish wardrobe additions.

The pictures above from a 1925 catalog, offered on the wonderful blog The New Vintage Lady, shows that the scarves were available at many price points, depending on the size of the scarf and the quality of the fur.  The “money saving special” fur ensemble scarf was only $3.95—$73.00 in today’s currency.  It sounds like it was probably composed of fur scraps from various animals.  It is also quite small, only circling the neck.

For just a dollar more you could get a considerably larger scarf made of Manchurian wolf or marmot.  These included the characteristic head, with the mouth used as a clasp, and dangling feet for decoration.

In a completely different price range is the gorgeous fox fur, the top of the line in the 1920s.  Gorgeously full with a big bushy tail, it cost almost five times more than the lesser furs, coming in at $454 in today’s currency.  (Here’s the tool I use for conversion). 

That makes me wonder how much the women above spent on their accessories, which come in many different fur types and configurations.  The good news—they happily could have worn their scarves for decades.

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A Mystery Dress

Found photo

This was a tiny picture to begin with and making it larger has just made it fuzzier.  Nonetheless, I think you can see the details that fascinate me.  Just what is she wearing?  A short sleeved, many-layered bathrobe with a long-sleeved shirt underneath?  A dress inspired by another culture beyond my ken?  A Google image search turned up nothing similar.

I was drawn to this photo not only by the outfit’s shape, but also by the fabric.  To me this looks like an Art Deco design, a style I love for its geometric structure with elaborate details.  Here are some examples from the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Too bad we can’t see the colors on our lady’s dress.  Is it homemade?  Someone has taken care to match the large pattern across the many panels.

Art Deco got its official start at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris one hundred years ago.  It was a big event in the history of modern design and there is a new exhibit investigating its heritage this year.  Perhaps Art Deco fabric will make a brief comeback.

When was the photo taken?  The shoes could be from the 1920s, but the dress with its unusual structure could have come from any era.  I would love to hear your thoughts.

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Small Prints for Older Women

Found photo

This old woman looks almost regal sitting in a rattan chair in from of her house, at least I imagine it is hers.  She offers familiar markers of age—hair drawn back into a severe bun and a brooch at the high neckline.  Her waistline has also moved up quite a bit to accommodate the menopot that comes with age. 

However, what drew me to this photo were the small white dots on her dark dress—perhaps even a navy blue dress.  Fashion advisors in the early 1900s, when I believe this photo was taken, told older women to stick to dark colors and very small prints so as not to draw attention to a shape that had not changed for the better with age.

At first I assumed that these were polka dots, a perennial favorite. They aren’t. Instead, they are small rice shaped figures set at angles, giving the pattern a little more movement. It just goes to show that even within the narrow strictures set for older women someone could make things a bit more interesting.

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Eleanor Roosevelt’s First Press Conference, 1933

Since Trump destroyed it, there have been many obituaries for the East Wing of the White House, historically associated most closely with the position of First Lady.  For me the most moving was the one that showed how Eleanor Roosevelt not only had used it to transform the role of that office but also to lift the status of women journalists in the US.  In 1933 she held the first press conference ever given by a First Lady, insisting that only women journalists attend.  That gave her a forum for her own issues—which included racial equality.  It also secured the jobs of women reporters.  If papers wanted to cover the events, they had to hire women to do the job.

Above is a photo of the first event on March 6, 1933.  Everyone except Roosevelt is wearing a hat, many in cloche hats that I associate with the previous decade.  I guess a cloche had the advantage of not blocking out the faces of those behind you.  There are many young faces here, but also several older ones. 

Unfortunately, there is no comprehensive list of the women who attended, although you can find a few well-known names here.  I would love to know more about the life stories of the most seasoned reporters in attendance.  Did they start out writing about recipes, finally crowning their careers covering the White House?

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The Flapper Dress and the Older Body

Found photo

The most famous dress styles of the 1920s either had a dropped waist or no waist at all.  They looked best on young, slim bodies.  When I first started this blog, I lamented how older women looked in the clothes.  The thin, drapey fabric of the most iconic twenties dresses showed every lump and bump.  There was little fashion magic that could create the illusion of thinness for someone who had gained weight around the middle.  Therefore I concluded that twenties styles were not flattering to the older shape.

I’ve changed my mind since I made that conclusion years ago.  The notion of “flattering clothing” is a very restrictive concept. Should the goal of fashion really be to make women look younger and slimmer than they are?  Or is it to embrace current styles if you want, to find clothing you like, and to wear it with joy? It’s easy to conclude that the woman on the right does not fit the fashion silhouette of the twenties. Despite the elongating stripe in the middle of her dress, she certainly does not look slim.  However, it is a beautiful dress as far as we can see from this small photo.  Best of all she looks quite content, which is the best style of all.

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What a Grandmother Looks Like, 1920 Edition

I played with a lot of paper dolls as a girl and even designed a set for myself and my cousins.  However, it never occurred to me to make paper dolls for or about my grandmother.  Unlike this imaginary one, mine kept up with current styles.

Everything about this older woman says “old fashioned.” Her color choices, gray and lilac, were top among the few recommended to the older set.  Her skirt length is significantly longer than the styles of 1920.  Her necklines are high and several of her outfits show a lot of lace.  For cutting flowers in the garden, this grandmother even donned a bonnet, something that had disappeared from the fashion scene long ago.  Other telltale clues include the tea cup, knitting supplies, and the cat.  The only thing that looks vaguely up to date is the shorter length fur coat with the big shawl collar.

In one 1907 article in Harper’s Bazaar a young woman wondered where all the sweet old ladies had gone.  “They seem to have gone out of fashion along with the dear pretty caps they used to wear, and that they looked so sweet in” (Harper’s Bazaar, April 1907, p. 365).  She only had to wait a few years to find the cap on a paper doll in a rival publication.

Thanks, as always, to Davrie Caro for this discovery.

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A Fur Haori?

Found photo

The fur jacket on the right, with the long dangling sleeves, looks like a garment inspired by the Japanese haori, a short garment with a shape similar to a kimono. In Japan it is used as a coat worn over traditional clothing. 

The design of the jacket above is not exactly the same.  It is quite short, contrasting with the voluminous sleeves.  In that regard, the jacket resembles a furisode, a kimono style popular with young women that has long hanging sleeves. 

Whatever the inspiration, I think this jacket looks both elegant and highly impractical.  Personally I would rather have more warmth in the length and slimmer sleeves.  Wouldn’t these get slammed in car doors?  But if her intent was to convey wealth and leisure, this jacket does the trick. 

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Vogue’s First Age Issue–March 15, 1948

From 2004 to 2011, Vogue magazine published an “age issue” that featured accomplished older women, from novelist Judith Krantz to designer Muccia Prada.  The focus was on women with great style.

However, in what I am calling Vogue’s first “age issue” in 1948, the focus was different.  In an editorial called “Vogue’s Eye View of the New Majority,” the magazine drew attention to the potential political and social power of women over 45.  New census data had revealed that for the first time since record keeping began, women outnumbered men in the United States.  Moreover, women over 45 outnumbered men of the same age group by a whopping 800,000.  “The New Majority is a group of women with money, authority, and experience in living” (103). There follows a list of things these women should turn their attention to, including child poverty, teachers’ pay, and government priorities for health. 

Throughout the magazine, influential women in philanthropy and the arts get small cameos.  Although it is not explicitly mentioned, the cover model was famous hat designer Tatiana du Plessix, then aged 42.

Of course, fashion is not forgotten with nine pages focusing on “new fashions, adult and becoming.”  The first example is a green evening dress worn by a gray-haired woman.

Doesn’t she look a lot like Vogue’s older icon, Mrs. Exeter, who will make her first appearance in the magazine just a few months later?

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