In Living Color

Found photo

There is no date on this brilliantly colored photograph, but my best guess is that it comes from the 1970s. That is the decade when older women started wearing pants in large numbers.  It is also the time when natural hairstyles gained a large following in the African American community. 

If you look carefully, you’ll see that this is an unusual garment.  It appears to be a one piece jump suit with a flounce at the neck. The bold print incorporates yellow, orange, brown, green, white, and turquoise.  She also has on bright turquoise hoop earrings.  At first I thought that the jumpsuit might be made of African fabric.  On closer inspection, those wave shapes look more hippie than African. With her bold pose she is perhaps modeling her own original clothing design. This is obviously a woman who wasn’t afraid to stand out!

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Dressed for the Photographer

Found photo

This is a real photo postcard, never sent. Although skilled photographers learned how to made these postcards themselves, this one looks like the photo was taken and the postcard created in a professional studio. From the design of the company logo on the back, Kruxo, I can tell that it was made between 1911 to 1922.  The clothes tell the same story, v-neck dresses and shoes showing.  Given the very wide hem on the dress on the right, perhaps the woman shortened it to stay in style.

I’m most interested in the woman on the left, though.  She is clearly dressed up for the photo, with her flowered hat and long gloves.  Note the many markers of the well-dressed older woman—a brooch at her neck, a big lace collar. She is even wearing polka dots, a print often recommended to the older set. 

Are they relatives? Friends? This card let acquaintances know that they were happy to be together.

Posted in 1910s | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Sportswear for Curling, 1908

She might not be fifty yet, and she’s not an American. Nonetheless, I loved this photo of a Canadian woman curling so much that I thought I would share it with you. It’s from one of my favorite sources, the Library of Congress’s weekly photo uploads on Flickr. The clever people who choose the photos often try to match them with current events. Obviously the Winter Olympics inspired this one. It’s good to remember that professionals’ skills were first nurtured by passionate amateurs.

Of course it’s the clothing that drew me to this member of the Montreal Curling Club. She has made some nods to the needs of her sport, especially the very fluffy sweater and the woolen gloves. But her hat! I will yield to the superior knowledge of hat experts, but it looks to me like she could also wear it to church on Sunday. The woman behind her has on an outfit that better fits my idea of serious sports attire for women in the early twentieth century–a menswear inspired outfit complete with tie. Note also her more serious gloves.

Regardless of what she’s wearing, our curler looks like she knows what she’s doing!

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Hand Sewing in Thomastown, 1940

Unlike many seamstresses, I enjoy hand sewing.  Perhaps that is why I was attracted to this Farm Security Administration photo from 1940.  As is the case with many of these photos available from the Library of Congress, this one comes with quite a bit of information.  The photographer, Marion Post Wolcott, gives the following caption: “Patsy Jordan sewing in the living room of her daughter’s home at La Delta Project. Thomastown, Louisiana.”

This is just one of series of photos documenting the La Delta Project, a New Deal a relocation and housing program for Black cooperative farmers.  Each of the 147 families involved in the program received housing and land, along with a community center and a new school.

The photo above, also by Wolcott, shows the contrast between old and new housing.

The photo of Patsy Jordan in her daughter’s living room is intended to show the spacious interior of the new housing.  All of the elements of a comfortable middle class life are on display—a carpet on the floor, pictures on the wall, and a cozy sofa.  What is that piece of furniture on her right?  A radio set? A cabinet for keepsakes? Both?  Jordan looks quite content in her cotton house dress, covered with a full apron. She has on thick stockings along with those ubiquitous lace-up oxfords.  I wonder what she is sewing. Or is she just posed for the photographer?

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Quilting in Harlem

Studio Museum of Harlem

I think of African American quilting as a rural activity, probably because of the long legacy of Gee’s Bend quilters.  However, this event at the Studio Museum of Harlem shows that the tradition is alive and well in urban areas, too.  I found the photo while visiting the museum on a recent trip to New York City.  The facility has long functioned as a local school as well as a place to support new artistic talent.

Look how dressed up the women are to practice their craft! I wonder if they learned it before they moved to the city or were taught by their own relatives who made the journey before them. 

The photo was undated (or I missed the date).  However, looking at the clothes and the quilts on display in the background, it might have been taken during an exhibit of quilts in 1984. Showing how the work was done is very much in the tradition of the museum.  Maybe interested onlookers were inspired to try their hands at quilting.

And thinking of urban quilters, it is no surprise that the first quilt made by New York City textile artist, Faith Ringgold, is in the museum’s collection.

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The Last Word on Half Sizes

After at over a decade long fascination with the now forgotten category of half sizes, I think I’ve said my last on the topic. My colleague Carmen Keist and I recently published an article that traces the history of this phenomenon from its beginnings in the 1920s until its demise at the end of the 20th century.  If you would like to read the pdf, contact me at americanagefashion@gmail.com and I will send you a link. 

Initially conceived as an alternative to the standard size range taking shape at the beginning of the twentieth century, the developers of half sizes argued that most women were neither as tall nor as thin as designers and manufactures assumed. But instead of replacing old measurements, half sizes quickly became linked to older women.  Ads like the one above from 1934 were common, implying that half sizes would make an older body shape look young. 

Even efforts to produce celebrity brands by Gloria Swanson and Molly Goldberg in the 1950s only brought a temporary upswing in sales.

In the late 1980s, when the garment industry undertook a major renumbering of the sizing system, half sizes were eliminated from most brands altogether. 

Should we mourn their passing?  I think so.  Their design included features like a higher and wider waist that fit the post-menopausal body better.  These days, though, our sizing system is so confused that numbers and categories have little common meaning.  My advice, as always, is to sew your own clothes!

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Signs of Age–The Brooch at the Neck

Found photo

After looking at hundreds of photos of older women at the beginning of the twentieth century, I’ve come to expect a common feature.  Many wear a brooch at the neck of their high collared shirt.

Found photo

In a group of women, it is frequently the older of the bunch who wears a brooch.  Although not necessary in the photo above, a brooch can be helpful when trying to evaluate age.

Of course, not all older women chose brooches, and younger women wore them as well.  Customs also began to change as very high necklines went out of fashion.

Nonetheless, the brooch at the neck was common enough that it became part of a stereotyped image of an older woman—as seen in this war bond poster from 1917.

And we can still find it in our visual universe today.

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At the Thrift Store, 1960s

Found photo

It looks like these two silver haired women have just come from the beauty shop after their weekly wash and set, stopping in at a thrift store on their way home.  My first reaction to this eBay slide was: “But they’re old…why are they interested in old clothes?”  Then I remembered that I, too, am old and I also find it hard to pass a thrift store without looking.

These women appear quite prosperous, with their styled hair and nice winter coats.  The one on the right, with silver cat eye glasses, has accented her white coat with black accessories.  The one on the left wears a coat with a nice fur collar.  Do you think that black and white dress she has in her hand would suit her?  Perhaps she is eyeing it for her friend, since the colors match the other’s style.  What I really want to know is just who took the picture.

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Considering the Veil

I find reading fashion advice manuals entertaining, while also a way to do research for this blog. Those from the the early twentieth century sometimes advise older women to consider veils as a way to disguise their wrinkles.  Perhaps this is not what the authors had in mind, since to my eye Mrs. A. E. Fish has made herself look ill in addition to old. 

The picture comes from the Bain News Service, a wonderful repository of news and society photos from the first decades of the twentieth century.  It commemorates Mrs. A. E. Fish’s charitable contribution to a school for disabled children. 

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Puck’s Greeting to the New Year, 1898

It’s not often that you find women representing the old and new years.  This wonderful image showed up in my Flickr feed from the Library of Congress.  It comes from the satirical magazine, Puck, which often featured drawings of comely young ladies.  This is my first glimpse of a depiction of an older woman.  Here she represents all the problems of the past, including “Bryanism,” (the philosophy of William Jennings Bryan) and Hard Times.

Bicycles were very much the emblem of the New Woman at the end of the nineteenth century, and here we see such a woman in all her independence.  Although she doesn’t have on a divided skirt, hers is short enough that it doesn’t get in the way of the wheels.  She wears a jaunty hat and a contented look, sprinkling flowers behind her as she rides.

The older woman, by contrast, is witch like.  Dressed all in black, she wears an old fashioned bonnet.  Her gloomy dress might also have a bustle, another out-of-style element.  The long skirt looks not only uncomfortable but dangerous.  Pursued by storms, she rides out into desolation.  It’s interesting, though, that she is also on a bike.  Apparently in Puck’s view not even the old could avoid modern forms of transportation. 

Posted in Pre 1900 | Tagged , | 3 Comments