In her book American Beauty, author Patricia Mears calls Jessie Franklin Turner (1888-1956) “arguably the first important American couturier of the twentieth century.” Her dresses usually had simple shapes but original fabrics that were inspired by non-Western styles and textiles. She frequented museums for her inspiration and had textiles copied for her original designs. As the caption for this 1933 photo states, “Miss Turner proceeds directly to new and exquisite material for an inspiration.”
Although she ran a very successful shop on Park Avenue, Jessie Franklin Turner was shy about putting herself in the public eye—and this Fortune photo is one of the few I found online (and according to the caption, the first ever published). I love the contrast between the models in their fancy dresses and the designer all in black, including a black hat. She looks to be from another time and place entirely.
